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When setting up the Nexstar11  telescope try and position it in a somewhat open area. The GPS satellite receiver antenna is mounted in the top of one of the fork arms. If you put the Nexstar11 telescope close to a large obstruction it will shield the antenna from the satellite and you will not get GPS lock. A normal GPS lock time should be in the 3 to 5 minute range on the outside. Be sure to leave your scope on for at lease 20 minutes the first time you turn it on.

 

This tip will really improve your GOTO accuracy...if you are observing in one area of the sky (say the Constellation Orion, Taurus, & Gemini) for optimal GOTO accuarcy..slew to a star in the epicenter of the observing area (such as Betelgeuse...using List/Named Star/Betelgeuse) then press the ALIGN key--the display will ask if you wish to replace a named alignment star (two were used to GPS align initially)..be sure to replace the alignment star that is closest to Betelgeuse (use the up down keys to choose) they press ENTER then ALIGN. With my N11 all objects in the chosen observing area are within 1/3 of the field of view of a 26mm eyepiece (that is at 108X) with most almost in the center! This has worked extremely well for me and when you use this quick procedure you will definitely impress anyone in your Astronomy club!

 

 

When transporting the Nexstar11 telescope back the mirror up as far as possible. This will keep the mirror from flopping around on the rails. To do so turn the focus as far clockwise as possible.

 

You may see a small pause after the Nexstar11 positions itself using the controller buttons, or in a directed search. This is caused by the slop in the gear chain which positions the scope. If you end Nexstar11 telescope movement in the downward and right direction you will get the scope in the right position to minimize the gear slop and hence the pause

 

Increasing the stability of the Nexstar11 Telescope Wedge

Here is the trick to make the telescope "better". Look at the plate that sits on top of the tripod of the telescope and the two rails that sit on each side of the telescope. You will note that you can actually move that plate to two different positions of the telescope. The obvious one everyone uses is the position that places the plate even with the side rails on the telescope. There is a full set of holes that allows you to move the plate about 3" towards the south end of the telescope. This includes an extra set of holes for the deluxe azimuth knob. If you move the plate to this position you will dramatically remove a lot of flex and vibration that the previous setup had by nature of the long cantilever of the telescope.

 

The only thing I found is that it does change the center of gravity of the telescope so you need to be aware of this. In fact I found that if you flop the wedge around 180 degrees so that the plate is held on by the threads cut in the aluminum tripod top rather than the inserts you get perfect balance. Of course as many of you know if you mount it this way the azimuth screw will run into the tripod leg top. The solution is to just replace that existing 1/4" x 20 long threaded rod with a longer rod (about 3/4" is right) and place some washers spacers between the plastic handle and the plate side so it will clear the leg top. I haven't been able to quantify the reduction in vibration or improvement in stiffness other than visual and trial by error but it seems significant.

Finally make sure you have all of those side plate screws especially the bigger ones tightened down otherwise you could get some movement as the screws move in the holes on the the telescope.

 

I know of some people that have used set screws to ensure that there is absolutely no movement in the areas where the big screws go

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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